Barb's Gardening Tips and Calendar

January is a good time to pore over garden catalogs and get orders submitted for spring

gardening.  Begin planning this year’s garden. Consider companion planting—some plants grow better when planted near each other! Add plants that attract beneficial insects (such as sunflower, yarrow, dill, and coriander). 

If you have received a poinsettia plant (Euphorbia pulcherrima) for Christmas, put it in a

window where it gets as much direct light as possible an do keep it watered.

When your Hellebores start to bloom, remove last years’ leaves — down to the ground to allow the full display of the flowers and to encourage new leaves to form.

Prune trees and shrubs while they’re dormant. For trees and shrubs that bloom in summer, prune on the current year’s growth in winter. Note: For those that bloom in spring from buds on 1-year-old wood, prune just after flowers fade. 

Cut your sword ferns and grasses down now — before new growth really starts. It won’t hurt to offer them a nutrient feed now too.

Remove the snow from your shrubs to prevent them from breaking. If you do have broken branches trim them off neatly to a point of origin (e.g. back to the branch where they were joined).

Watch out for pop weeds (Cardamine hirsuta). They go to seed very quickly.

Prevent lawn damage by limiting the traffic on your frozen lawn. Prevent soil compaction by staying out of your garden until it warms a bit more — especially if you have a wet garden. Stepping on soil surfaces while wet will cause compaction, squeezing all the air out of your soil profile, especially in the top 12” of soil. Plants and organisms need just as much air in the soil profile as they do moisture. Plant roots, the fibrous ones, grow in the top 12”‐18” of the soil. So it follows that you will be limiting your plant growth and health when compacting the soil. Stepping stones and pathways in your ornamental garden beds will help to avoid the problem where the actual plants are growing.

Remove leaves and other debris from your yard and around your plants (if there is not too much snow) to help reduce pests and diseases.  If your mulch was blown or washed away, reapply it around your plants. 

Spray lime sulfur on fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs. 

As soon as the soil is workable, add in manure or compost to prepare your garden for planting. 

Prune established fruit trees and berries.  Remove any diseased or damaged branches from trees and shrubs. 

Remember (when attacking those nasty slugs) they are a good addition to your compost bin dead or alive — alive they will break down cardboard and paper (carbon material = browns). I always move the native banana slugs to the bins. And if you get slimed—wash your hands/tools with warm water and vinegar.

Do not work your soil too early. WAIT till the soil has dried enough to work without causing damage to its’ structure. Soil structure is how the aggregates (groupings of particles of sand, silt and clay held together by humus) are formed and held together to allow good drainage but still hold enough water for the use of our plants and for the soil micro organisms.

When your soil has warmed give your soil organisms and plants a treat by broadcasting an organic mix and then mulch with a 2” or so layer of compost or bark mulch that has broken down for a year or so. For the organic mix I use Borden’s Mix from Borden  Mercantile, Victoria or you can mix your own from ingredients from Buckerfields. 

You can start seeds indoors now, such as brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, and most herbs; remember to keep them in a warm place, but avoid keeping them in direct sunlight. 

Plant peas at the end of the month.

Deadhead early bloomers regularly e.g. primulas to avoid disease on old flowers.

Check for eggs laid by the Viburnum Leaf Beetle on the small terminal twigs, last fall. You can try to limit the damage that the larvae will do as soon as leaves form on the deciduous shrubs. Damage will occur as soon as it warms on evergreen plants. Not only the larvae attack the leaves, but so do the adults.

Protect your crocus and tulips from rabbits by using upturned wire baskets over the plants. Also, fawn lilies‐‐‐they will nip off every flower. 

If you haven't already done so prune deciduous trees, shade trees, small fruits and fruit trees, ornamentals, evergreens {except pine which are suggested to be pruned closer to May}. Deciduous trees should be pruned during the dormant season when the leaves are off and before the sap starts to flow again. Flowering shrubs should typically be pruned immediately after flowering; pruning them now may result in cutting off this year’s blooms. Roses, however, should be pruned when yellow forsythia shrubs begin to bloom. 

Set out Mason Bee cocoons and houses. Mason Bees are gentle, hard-working pollinators. Set out cocoons when temperatures are consistently about 10-13C or higher, and make sure they will have a food source near them when they emerge. Early blooming bulbs or winter heather are good options to have close by. Place Mason Bee houses in a sheltered spot under a house eave on the south or southeast side of your home (or similar location).

The tomato season in the Northwest is about 120 days. Consider seeding indoors! You’ll want to seed at least 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting in late May (after hardening off plants). 

Plant out hardy hellebores, evergreen euphorbias, winter heathers and fragrant shrubs. Yes, you can plant perennials and shrubs now to enjoy for years to come. Early blooming plants provide much appreciated food for bees and other pollinators too. Remember the fragrance! Viburnum ‘Pink Dawn’, Chinese witch hazel, Sarcococca, Chimonanthus {wintersweet} and winter flowering honeysuckle are just a few of our seasonal flowering favourites.

Deadhead and clean up seasonal annuals. Fall-planted pansies, violas, bellis (English Daisies) and primulas appreciate a clean up to encourage re-blooming. When kept healthy, they will often bloom through to mid-Spring. Side dress with well-composted manure to give them a bit of a boost.

Divide hosta, daylilies, and mums. 

Asparagus and rhubarb plants can be planted as soon as the soil is workable. 

Now is the time to plant more berry plants; consider planting disease-resistant varieties. 

Spray apple and pear trees for scab when buds appear, to avoid disease. 

Consider planting drought-tolerant flowers, such as coneflowers, iris, and sedums. 

If you have transplants in the yard, be sure to protect them from any late spring frosts with a cover. 

Once dangers of hard frost have passed, prune roses. Remove all damaged wood, spindly canes, crossing branches, and blind shoots without flower buds. 

Fertilize your berry plants. Spray insecticidal soup on strawberries if you spot aphids. 

Fertilize any spring-blooming bulbs and ornamental plants that were not fertilized in March. Fertilize spring-blooming shrubs after they finish flowering. 

Use floating row covers to keep insects such as beet leaf miners, cabbage maggot adult flies, and other insects away. 

If you have cherry trees (Prunus species) check for Black knot and prune out. https://www.alberta.ca/black-knot.aspx

Fertilize your lawn. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. You are likely already using your lawn mower. Keep it in good condition with sharp blades for the best results, mow to a height of 2‐½ inches and when the heat comes let it go dormant — less work and so much easier on the water bill and environment.

If you have some shady sites perhaps some ferns would add texture to your garden — a few favourites — native western sword fern (Polystichum munitum) is good for dry shade, so plant them under cedars and firs. There are many cultivars with finer foliage that add interest to the garden. How about maidenhair ferns — (Adiantum spp.) — there are many variations, all beautiful.

In perennial beds, keep weeds under control by weeding often and  using an edger to set your beds and keep grass at bay. Use mulch to cover bare patches, or plant thickly to crowd out those invaders.

Your tender bulbs are happy to be planted out soon — dahlias, cannas and gladioli. Indoor tropicals can be moved outside to enjoy warm sunshine, (when available) but let them acclimatize gradually to avoid scorched leaves.

Stake those tall growing perennials NOW.

Employ colour to attract birds and pollinators; red and orange for hummingbirds; blue, purple, violet, white and yellow for bees; and dark pink, purple, red, orange and yellow for butterflies.

Don’t be too quick to write off some “dead” looking shrubs in your garden. A few of mine do not show any signs of new growth, but be patient. You could do a small “scratch” on a lower stem to see if there is green, live growth still apparent and so reassure yourself.

Manure water poured around spring blooming perennials will often produce larger flowers. I have used Grassoline All Purpose Fish Fertilizer… and think it works well. 

You can sow hardy annual seeds now, such as calendula, cosmos, and sweet peas. 

Plant potatoes. Mound up soil around their base to create a small hill. 

Let foliage of spring-flowering bulbs brown. Once died down, divide if desired. 

If soil temperature is above 15 degrees, you may plant beans and sweet corn. 

Fertilize your rhododendrons and azaleas with an acid-based fertilizer if needed. 

Prune your flower shrubs after they have finished blooming—azaleas, forsythia, lilacs, and rhododendrons. You can also prune evergreens once new growth appears. 

Plant dahlias, gladioli, and tuberous begonias. 

Fertilize your roses and check for diseases; treat if needed. 

Cut back spring-blooming perennials to about 3 inches in height after they finish blooming. Sow more perennial seeds and set out new perennial plants. 

Stake peonies now that the buds are forming. For larger blooms take off the small side buds. You may need to stake delphiniums and gladiolas now as well.

Tender annual vines can be set out now. If you have overwintered tubbed plants they can be moved out now. Top with some rich soil and liquid manure/organic fertilizer.

Continue planting succession crops of vegetables as soon as the first crops appear above the ground.

Deadhead ornamentals for a neater look to your garden and to encourage further blooming. This material can be used to build your compost pile.

Tie up your delphiniums when they are starting to stretch otherwise they will be damaged if not looked after.

If soil temperature is above 20 degrees, you can now plant eggplants, melons, tomatoes, squash, and peppers. 

Prune flowering shrubs, such as rhododendrons, lilacs, and azaleas, after they bloom. 

Cut the scapes off your garlic, so the plantʹs energy goes into forming a large bulb (steam or stir fry the tasty scapes)

Fertilize your potted plants regularly with a water soluble fertilizer (perhaps 20‐20‐20) on the annuals and fish fertilizer on the veggies)

Make sure you water your compost pile to keep the creatures happy – moisture

and air are important components of the composting process.

If your apple and pear trees drop, thin the remainder for more productive harvest. 

Stay on top of garden weeds. 

Fertilize your vegetable plants 1 month after they emerge by side dressing. 

Remember to water your lawn if you plan on keeping it green over the summer. It is better to water it deeply and less frequently than shallow and more frequently.   Make sure your lawn is getting 1 inch of water per week. (Measure rainfall by putting out an empty tin can.) 

Replant, into fresh compost soil, any of your crowded and old bearded irises. This should be done about 6 weeks after blooming. Discard all the old rhizomes (and any that are damaged/diseased) and replant the new rhizomes found near the ends of the clumps. There should be some roots and at least one shoot of leaves. Plant them high so that the knob of the rhizome is sticking above the soil line and the roots are covered. They bloom best if sun is hitting the rhizomes.

Water in the early morning to avoid any evaporation. Water the soil rather than the plants to avoid disease. Let the soil surface dry out before watering again. 

Water tomatoes very evenly and apply a 2-inch layer of mulch. This may help to avoid early and late blight. Prune for air circulation and remove damaged leaves. Treat with fungicide if needed. 

Do not fertilize your trees and shrubs after mid-July because the new growth will not harden off in time to avoid any winter damage. 

Stake tall plants, such as delphinium, lupine, and tomatoes. 

Add compost or cow manure to rhubarb an asparagus beds. Water deeply. 

Be sure to keep weeding; weeds will compete with your plants to use up nutrients and water. 

Plant beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce, kale, and peas to provide fall and winter crops. 

Continue harvesting fruit, vegetables, and herbs to encourage more growth. 

Keep your annuals and perennials blooming by removing all of the dead flowers. 

Keep an eye out for spider mites, caterpillars, root weevils, and other insects. Treat when necessary. 

Fertilize squash, cucumbers, and broccoli to keep production going as long as possible. 

Clean and fertilize strawberry beds. 

Once the temperature beings to drop, you can divide and transplant perennials. 

Yellow jackets and wasps often emerge. They are beneficial insects, so control with traps and lures as needed. 

Prune berry bushes after harvest. Remove old raspberry canes after fruiting. 

Dig up and separate spring-blooming bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils. 

If there is room in the garden, you can start your winter plants, such as winter kale, brussels sprouts, turnips, and parsley—plus, more beets, carrots, lettuce, and broccoli. 

Keep a close watch on your plants to make sure that they do not dry out—especially raised gardens. Let the soil surface dry an inch or so deep before watering, and after make sure water reaches roots several inches deep. 

Continue harvesting fruit and vegetables as they ripen to encourage growth.  

Stop pruning and fertilizing roses and perennials. It will only encourage tender new growth that will get zapped this winter. Let your plants start to go dormant.

For best selection, buy bulbs as soon as you see them in stores. Keep in a cool, dry place until time for planting in October.  Add bulb fertilizer and be sure to water them before the ground freezes. Select big, hearty-size bulbs. 

Itʹs also a good time to add fall color to the garden with variegated sages, euphorbias, ajugas, winter pansies, and ornamental kales and cabbages.

Start fall clean-up in the flower beds, cutting back anything that has finished blooming or is diseased.

Whack Your Weeds ‐‐ Although this time of year itʹs tempting to forget about weeding, keep up with it. Thereʹs an old saying about weeds that one yearʹs seeding means seven yearsʹ weeding.

Bird Feeding ‐‐ Fall is the time overwintering birds establish their food sources. If you havenʹt already, put out your bird feeding equipment.

Trim or stake your bushy perennial plants to avoid any wind damage.

September is the best time to fertilize lawns for strong roots. Use an organic or slow-release fertilizer formulated for fall that rain won’t wash away. 

Save seeds from your favorite vegetable, fruit, and flower plants. Dry the seeds and store them in airtight containers in a cool and dry place over the winter.

Dig up and store those tender bulbs like caladiums, cannas, and other tubers. Wait to do your dahlias till next month, they are probably blooming wonderfully still.

Divide peonies and iris. 

Harvest remaining vegetables except those cold hardy varieties such as brussels

sprouts, lettuce, and beets.

Bring summer vacationing houseplants back indoors while the windows are still open. Check carefully for hitchhiking pests.

Allow leaves from deciduous trees to remain on your beds, where they fall!!!! They provide winter protection from cold and rain to your garden beds. If you have a surplus of leaves: cover your veggie beds with them.

CHOP AND DROP: chop up the debris as in stems and leaves, and drop it right back onto the beds. This offers winter protection and a valuable source of nutrients that will break down over the winter and feed your soil microorganisms.

Don’t leave soil exposed. Our winter rains can cause compaction and also cause valuable nutrients to be washed away.

Continue to harvest and store your fruit and vegetables for the winter. Dig and store potatoes in a dark location. 

Dig, clean, and store tuberous begonias, callas, dahlias and other tender bulbs before frost threatens. 

Dig out geraniums if you are overwintering.

Cut back tender roses to 10 to 12 inches and remove all foliage so insects and diseases can’t winter over. Cover tender, hybrid roses with leaves or straw to protect against winter temperature in the colder areas of the region.

Hostas are yellowing---so can be cut off at the bottom of the leaves if you feel they are unsightly---this also helps to lesson the number of slugs that will winter over. But if you want “mulch” leaves are a choice as they break down nicely.

Rhodos are developing their flowers for next year so DON’T prune now---prune after flowering.

Shut off your water and drain systems. Put away your hose and equipment.

Cover compost piles with black plastic to keep rain from making them too soggy.

Dig and divide rhubarb every 4 years.

Plant garlic. It will overwinter and be ready to harvest next summer. 

Mow the lawn one last time.  Mow your lawn a little shorter than usual to help prevent snow mold.  Spread corn gluten meal if you have problems with crab

grass. A corn milling byproduct, corn gluten meal inhibits the root growth of crabgrass (and all other) seedlings. Unable to develop roots, the crabgrass seedlings die. Corn gluten meal is approximately 10 percent nitrogen by weight, thus making it a natural “weed and feed” product.

Before you put away your mower, drain gasoline and take it to the shop for any repairs and to have the blade sharpened. Sharp blades give clean cuts and therefore less damage to your grass.

Bring in pots that can’t take a freeze — terra‐cotta, ceramic, many plastic pots.

October is still a good time to plant trees and shrubs. 

Spray apple and fruit trees to prevent disease.  

If you wish to convert yard space to garden beds, use newspaper or cardboard covered by mulch; by spring, all weeds will have died. 

In our warmish climate you can still plant container grown trees and shrubs, or even move some established specimens.

If you still have blooms on your roses, but pick a bouquet, and cut off the rest of the blooms and strip the leaves. Clean up the ground, discard the leaves in the garbage and mulch the plants with some compost.

Make sure pots that are left in your garden are not filling with rain and drowning your plants.

If you are storing plants in your green‐house make sure you check them for water needs periodically. They can dry out over the winter.

Bring in any tender plants in pots if not done already. Store in a cool place and check occasionally over the winter to keep slightly moist. Datura/Brugmansia would be a good example of these plants.

Clean your garden tools and put them away if you are not “winter” gardening.

It is important to have pollen and nectar plants in bloom between mid-summer through fall. Since bumble bees don’t store honey, they depend on a daily supply of food. For these, and other later season pollinators, flowers that bloom from July to October are very valuable.

Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and straw. 

Protect tender evergreens from the winter winds.  Tie up any loose evergreen shrub branches to protect them from ice and snow damage. 

Remove mulch and tall weeds from around your fruit trees to discourage mice and other pests from hiding there. 

Try seeding some herbs indoors and place near a sunny window. Chives, sage, and parsley may be good choices. 

Try growing amaryllis for the holidays! Plant the lower half of the bulb below the soil line in light potting soil. Water sparingly. Place the plant in bright light at 50 to 70 degrees. Once you see the stalk, rotate the pot twice a week and water to keep the soil barely moist. 

Plant a “winter” arrangement in your pots to last through the whole season. They can be augmented with holly and evergreens for the holiday season.

Re-plan your veggie gardens for next year to allow for crop rotation.

Clear leaves and debris from your ponds.

Spread some dolomite lime on plants that prefer a more alkaline soil like lilacs and on your veggie gardens.

If you have some Rosa rugosa shrubs with wonderful hips---don’t forget to use them in winter plant displays, indoors or out.

To avoid damage, do not let snow pile up on your shrubs and tree branches. 

Check your stored fruit, vegetables, and flower bulbs; remove any rotting ones. 

Keep up with yard maintenance. Remove any leaves, withered stalks, and winter weeds, and mulch your flower beds. Take the time now to save a lot of work later. 

Check for rodent damage around bases of trees and shrubs. Use traps and bait as needed. 

Do you have a woodstove or keep a fire? You can use wood ashes to raise your soil’s pH if you need it. (Don’t use if pH is greater than 7.0.) 

During heavy rain, check your yard for any drainage problems. Consider any upgrades to your water systems, such as drip irrigation. 

Buying a Christmas tree? Keep it fresh by sawing off the bottom 2 inches and check the water often, as it consumes a tremendous amount in the first 48 hours! 

If you have poinsettias, keep them away from cold windows and place in sunlight. Fertilize with a houseplant fertilizer.